St Vincent and the Grenadines is a nation of 32 gorgeous cays and islands. Although traditionally the territory of smugglers, pirates, wealthy yachters, reclusive royalty and rehabbing rock stars, this lost corner of the world is increasingly accessible to travellers.St Vincent, the northernmost island, is the nation’s commercial and political hub, accounting for 90% of both the land area and the population. However, the true attractions are the smaller islands that reach like stepping-stones from St Vincent down to Grenada. Surrounded by coral reefs and clear blue waters, they are some of the region’s best spots for diving, snorkelling and boating. In particular, the uninhabited Tobago Cays are perhaps the most striking destination in the Caribbean.
While all of the Grenadine islands are lightly populated and generally undeveloped, exclusive Mustique, Palm Island and Petit St Vincent are worlds apart from funky, somewhat ramshackle Union Island and St Vincent.
We anchored at Wallilabou, St Vincent, on Wednesday 10 June 2009 and eight days later, anchored at St George’s, the capital of Granada. Our time in the area was short, however, we plan to revisit the area next year spending more time exploring these beautiful islands and cays.
Our stay at Wallilabou, St Vincent, is a picturesque bay surrounded by dramatic hills, about half way down the west coast of the island. In 2003, Wallilabou became famous as the main location for the movie “Pirates of the Caribbean” starring Johnny Depp. Many parts of the stage set are still there including a large dock structure in the southern part of the bay. A pleasant restaurant/hotel makes part of the waterfront, and this too was remodelled for the movie.
The large dock structure and the remodelled hotel used as part of the set for “Pirates of the Caribbean”.The bay is so deep that one needs to anchor and then tie a stern line to a wall, trees or some left over metal structures on the beach. Men in rowing boats approach you from as much as three miles away asking to take your stern line ashore for a fee. We accepted the offer from a local and he took our stern line for us for EC$20, then asked if we had fishing line that he could have. Mal made a deal and sold a reel and line to him for EC$10.
Later on in the day, two 13 year old boys swam out to our stern and sat on the steps. Mal went down to talk to them. They politely asked if we had any chocolate or biscuits to give them. We offered them honey and oatmeal biscuits which they gladly accepted and enjoyed while talking to Mal.
On leaving the next morning, we saw the local fisherman trolling by rowing their dingys up and down just outside the bay. Most were successful in catching some fairly good sized tuna.
Bequia
Bequia is approximately 8 miles south of St Vincent and is only 18 sq miles in size. Bequians are proud people, descendants of settlers who came from North America on whaling boats, from farms in Scotland, from France as freebooters and from Africa. The island has long been a favourite of yachts people. Isolated enough to remain relatively unspoiled, yet lively enough to be stimulating and entertaining, it provides a blend of the old and new that many find perfect. Bequia has the most to offer of any island in the group of St Vincent and the Grenadines from beaches to nightlife, fine restaurants, diving, shopping and local charm and art. Bequia is an island of sailors and boats, linked to the outside world mainly by the sea. In days gone by, everything from little “two bow” fishing boats to grand schooners were built by eye, using only simple hand tools in the shade of the palm trees. Sadly old traditions have died. Bequia is now famous for its model boats. One can even commission a copy of one’s own yacht!
The island has an active whaling station in a low-key and very traditional way. By IWC agreement, local whalers can take four whales a year, and in some years, they do not get any. Few people are left in Bequia with the skills necessary to hunt them – a daring feat in an open sailing boat, using hand thrown harpoons. On the rare occasions that they make a kill, the hunters tow the whale to Semplers Cay which is just off Friendship Bay for butchering.
Bequi’s main harbour is Admiralty Bay with Bequia’s town, Port Elizabeth, built along the curve of the bay. It is an appealing seaside community with a busy port. Small hotels, bars, restaurants and shops spread from town along the south-eastern shore strung together by a narrow sidewalk along the shoreline known as the Belmont Walkway.
The waterfront in Port Elizabeth is colourful with vendors selling t-shirts, model boats and handicrafts. The building of model boats has been a Bequia specialty for generations. They will build any design to order but all-time favourites are the model whaling boats. They are artfully built and beautifully painted.
Our stay in Bequia was for approximately five days during which we were anchored in Admiralty Bay. We enjoyed exploring the markets and souvenir shops, especially the model boat shops.
Social outings were spent with cruisers who we had met previously and who were also spending a little time in Bequia. We were told that many cruisers arrived in Bequia and didn’t leave and we could understand why. It is a lovely island, with friendly locals and a large ex-pat community. In fact, we even enquired about the price of a small residential block of land on a hill overlooking Admiralty Bay thinking that it might be well priced and a good investment. We might have been able to purchase it some five years ago but, as with other islands in the Caribbean, the developers and the rest of the world have discovered the beautiful little island of Bequia and the price of land has soared.
On leaving Admiralty Bay for Mayreau, we passed the sight of “Moonhole”. This was a rather isolated community not easily accessible by either land or sea, there being no road or good anchorage. It was founded by the late American architect Tom Johnson. The original was built under a natural arch know as “Moonhole”. It was abandoned when a huge boulder fell from the ceiling crushing an empty bed. The other houses appear to grow out of the rocks without straight lines or right angles. They had huge arches, fantastic views, and lovely patios. There was no glass in the windows and no electricity. We understand that one can take a tour but we were happy just viewing it from the water.
Mayreau
Mayreau is 1.5 square mile, lightly populated island west of the Tobago Cays. With a population of about 250, Mayreau has neither ground water nor a secondary school and it wasn’t until 2004 that an electrical plant was installed. It’s two bays, Saline and Saltwhistle, are iconic castaway harbours that lure yachting visitors.
Saltwhistle Bay is protected by a long, narrow arm of sand, which at its thinnest is just a few yards wide. Shaded by palms that line a sprawling crescent of sand, the tiny and exclusive Saltwhistle Bay Resort is built in such harmony with its surroundings that it is hardly noticeable.
Hasta La Vista framed by the palm trees on the beach of Saltwhistle Bay.
One of the outdoor settings of the exclusive Saltwhistle Bay Resort.
