The Galapagos Islands are an archipelago of volcanic islands distributed around the equator in the Pacific Ocean, 972 km (525 nautical miles) west of continental Ecuador, of which they are a part. The group consists of 15 main islands, 3 small Islands, and 107 rocks and islets The islands are on top of the Galapagos hotspot, a place where the Earth's crust is melted from below by a mantle plume, creating volcanoes. The oldest island is thought to have been formed between 5 million to 10 million years ago. The youngest islands, Isabella and Fernandina, are still being formed, the most recent volcanic eruption being in April 2009 where lava from the volcanic island, Fernandina, started flowing towards the island's shoreline.
Although located on the Equator, the Humboldt Current, which runs from the Antarctic, brings cold ocean water to the islands, cooling the temperature of the air considerably. During the season known as the "Garoua" (June to November), the temperature is 22 ° C. A steady, cold wind blows from the South and Southeast, and frequent drizzle (Garoua) lasts most of the day causing dense fog that conceals the islands. During the warm season (December to May), the average air temperature rises to 25 ° C. There is no wind at all and occasionally, some rain.
The Islands are a UNESCO World Heritage site with its wildlife being the most notable feature. They are famous due to the visit of the HMS “Beagle” and Charles Darwin. On 15 September 1835, the survey ship HMS “Beagle”, on their round the world expedition, arrived at the Galapagos Islands to survey approaches to harbours. The captain and others on board including the young naturalist Charles Darwin made a scientific study of geology and biology. Darwin’s observations of wildlife on the island led to the inception of Darwin’s theory of evolution by natural selection.
Today, the natural wildlife of Galapagos is being threatened by animals e.g. goats, pigs, dogs, cats, rats and plant life that have been introduced over the centuries, but more so, in the last century.
Overfishing is slowly diminishing the food source for the large colonies of Sea Lions that live on the islands and local conversationists are concerned that the fast growing poultry industry may introduce disease that will threaten the wild bird life.
The Galapagos Islands are one of the few places in the world without an indigenous population. The largest ethnic group is the Ecuadorian Mestizos, the mixed descendants of Spanish colonists and indigenous native Americans, who arrived mainly in the last century from the continental Ecuador. There are also a large number of whites, mostly of Spanish descent. Galapagos attracted German Immigration during the early 20th century, and also had a small Norwegian fishing community until they were asked to leave.
The principal language on the islands is Spanish. US$ is the currency. The islands have a population of around 23,000.
“Hasta La Vista” and “Girl” set sail from Punta Cocos, Las Perlas, early morning on Sunday 23 May 2010. The sailing guides said that there could be violent thunder storms and the possibility of strong south-west winds (head winds) on this particular route and were they right! One night in particular, we had solid waves going right over the top of our cabin while beating to windward. We found by heading due south, but well off the Columbian Coast to avoid fishing boats, there was less tide and at about 8 degrees north we were able to make a course for Galapagos. The last two of the eight day slog was quite pleasant. Girl’s engine stopped a couple of times along the way. Nicholas was able to get it restarted the first time, but he wasn’t successful the second time. They sailed the remainder of the course without an engine.
At midnight, on Sunday 30 May 2010, “Hasta La Vista” and “Girl” anchored off Puerto Bazuerizo Moreno, San Cristobal, the capital of The Galapagos Islands. The voyage took seven days and seventeen hours. It wasn’t an overly pleasant sail and the four of us were glad to have finally arrived at our destination.
San Cristobal Island has an area of 558 square kilometers and its highest point rises to 730 metres. This is the first island in the Galapagos Archipelago that Charles Darwin visited on the historical voyage of the “Beagle”. San Cristobal hosts frigate birds, sea lions, giant tortoises, blue and red footed boobies (birds), tropic birds, marine iguanas, dolphins and swallow-tailed gulls. The largest fresh water lake in the archipelago, Laguna El Junco, is located in the highlands of San Cristobal.
We had been told by other cruisers to expect Sea Lions on our decks at night. Mal lashed the access to the stern steps on both the port and starboard hulls hoping that this would stop the Sea Lions from finding their way into the cockpit. We didn’t have any visitors into our cockpit but our stern steps were perfect for the Sea Lions to rest during the night and sun themselves during the day.
After anchoring on our arrival, Mal and I fell into bed, tired and ready for a few hours of solid sleep but the sound of a whoosh of water and then a thud soon woke us up. We suspected that we had a visitor and sure enough, Mal found a Sea Lion comfortably resting on one of the stern steps. He shooed the Sea Lion away (they leave a stain on the fibreglass) and came back to bed. We heard the same sound a number of times from then on but were too tired to worry about getting up. From then on, we were quite vigilant in shooing the Sea Lions off our stern. I think word must of got around as we found that the number of visitors was less and less. There were plenty of decks on which they could rest. One didn’t go in by dingy but by water taxi which was great. If we had taken our dingy in, it would have been filled with Sea Lions as soon as we had tied to the jetty! On going into town on our first day, we saw many Sea Lions sunning themselves on the decks of the fishing boats and motor cruisers moored off the town. From the shore, it was really fascinating watching the Sea Lions as they swam from boat to boat looking for a place to rest. They would dive down and then up into the air so that they were high enough to see over the hull of the boat. They would do this until they found a boat which suited them then they would dive down and throw themselves up onto the deck. The Sea Lions are not shy and as we walked down the jetty from where we alighted from the water taxi, Sea Lions were everywhere. On the seats, on the steps going down to the water, along the promenade and the beach or on a flat rock along the shore line. They were everywhere!
We were anchored at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno for nine days during which time Nicholas and Mal worked on “Girl’s” engine every day.
Most days Lynn and I would catch a water taxi in to the jetty and explore the town, stocking up on groceries, going to an internet cafe or visiting the many clothes and souvenir shops. Often we would meet up with Mal and Nicholas for an inexpensive restaurant lunch.
After being at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno for a couple of days, “Cabillito De Mar” arrived from Panama. We met Aussies Brian and Ann at Aruba, then again at Cartegna and at the marina in Colon. Brian and Ann came over to “Hasta La Vista” by water taxi for drinks soon after anchoring and we talked about our voyages over from Panama. Brian and Ann joined Mal and I and Nicholas and Lynn for dinner on our last evening at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. “Cabillito De Mar” left Galapagos the same day as “Hasta La Vista” and I am sure we will see them again somewhere in the Pacific.
Finally, after working many hours on “Girl’s” engine, Nicholas and Mal were not able to repair it. Nicholas and Lynn would need to ship in parts or fly to LA to purchase them and bring them back to Galapagos. They didn’t know how long it would take so it was agreed that “Hasta La Vista” would set sail for The Marqueses and “Girl” would catch up with us further along the route through the Pacific.
We decided on the last day of our stay that the four of us would tour San Cristobal by taxi and see a little of Galapagos before Mal and I left the next day. Long windy roads were manoevered to reach Laguna El Junco, the largest fresh water lake in the archipelago, located in a volcanic crater. Flocks of Frigates, large winged black birds, preen themselves in the fresh water lake as their wings cannot take salt water.
From there, we visited a local farm and restaurant where tropical fruit and plants were grown and a tortoise sanctuary where a large number of tortoises are kept for their own protection and where a breeding programme is in place.
We were hoping to see a blue-footed booby (bird) during our travels, but we were disappointed. However, a trip to a beach strewn with volcanic rocks, gave us a look at some sea iguanas. Not a very pretty lizard as you can see by the photos!
Lunch at our favourite restaurant ended our tour and our last day in Galapagos was celebrated with the “Six Aussies” Nicholas and Lynn on “Girl”, Brian and Ann on “Cabillito de Mar”, and Mal and I getting together for dinner at another restaurant.
It was with sadness that Mal and I said our goodbyes and on Wednesday morning 9 June 2010 set sail for The Marqueses, 3,000 nautical miles across the Pacific Ocean with no land stops in between!
